The ammolite will be set in a full bezel; a narrow band that follows the entire contour of the gem. The height of the bezel is just slightly higher than the thickness of the gem so when it is pushed over (set) it will secure the gem in place.
There are a couple reasons why I like using full bezels when setting stones. First, it’s very functional. It can be made to fit organic shaped stones and protects the entire edge from wear. It also adds an element of design. It’s a very simple look that gives it a modern and contemporary feel.
I use 22 karat gold – a high karat gold that is very soft and will easily burnish down, using less pressure to set this delicate gem.
The bezel is soldered onto a full plate of 14k yellow gold as the back.
This plate is larger than the bezel and the excess boarder will be trimmed flush. During the sawing of the backing plate boarder I decide to leave two sections that overhang. I realize I may need that later!