As I continue to build the Ammolite Brooch I have decided to create a gold shape using an ancient technique called repoussé. It will be opposite of the bezel set ammolite. It is a method of metalsmithing that I enjoyed in school. Now I rarely have the need or the time to use this old world procedure. It is becoming a lost art and very few artisans use it.
Repousse:
A French word meaning “push up”. And that is exactly what we do to the metal. In this technique the gold is shaped by hammering from the reverse side. The gold is annealed or softened by heating to a dull red. It is placed in a tar like substance called “pitch”. Using a small hammer and striking various shaped steel punches the malleable metal moves to create a low relief design. The gold sheet is then removed, again annealed and reversed into the pitch. Working it from the other side is called “chasing” to refine the design. That is the front side. These two techniques are continuously used in conjunction. It is a slow process as the metal is stretched and shaped.
Repousse Tools Polished Years ago I made the steel tool punches myself to obtain the size and shapes that I liked. It is essential to polish the ends to a mirror surface because any flaws or marks on the tool will transfer to the metal. During the shaping process the tools will leave a texture leaving evidence of the working method. This textured understanding is an inherent part of its beauty.
Repousse Plate I am working with a 24 gauge (.7mm thick) sheet of 22k yellow gold. The almost pure metal is very soft and malleable to shape. The risk in using such a soft piece it is easy to mistakenly “punch through” creating a hole as the metal is being worked.
Repousse Process The pitch is slowly warmed with a torch to soften the material but not burn it. The metal is set into the soft pitch and secured in place as it cools and hardens.
Repousse Pitch Shaping It is so interesting to see the shape and design remaining in the pitch.
Annealing As the gold is hammered with the punches it is becoming work hardened. It will crack if over worked. Therefore the gold is constantly removed from the pitch and annealed to a dull red to soften.
Repousse Chasing The piece is continuously flipped over and reset in the pitch to chase the front.
Gauging Repousse Thickness As the shape progresses it is critical to check the thickness. Too thin and it will accidentally punch through a hole
Filing Repousse Shape Flat When the design is completed the back edges are filed evenly and flat.
Soldering Repousse Piece A repoussé design can be left open in the back. I decide to enclose the back by adding a 14k yellow sheet. This will help to give structural support and a needed base for the pin components. Small pieces of solder are added around the entire seam. Like the bezel, the backing boarder will be cut away. Again, I am leaving a small section to be used later.
