Now that the two main pieces – the Ammolite’s Bezel and repousse gold – have been welded together, I can begin the wax carving step for the accent stones. This will hold the round Mexican Fire Opal and accent diamonds to tie the design together. The wax will then be cast into precious metals.
A marquise diamond will be used to accent the brooch on the bottom. This also requires a custom setting that will be carved in wax by hand.
I fill the area between the two main pieces with a high temperature green carving wax.
Using a mini drill with round burs I make indentations that will temporarily accommodate the round gems.
I lay the gems in place and build up the settings and prongs.
Using scalpels I form my prongs
wax final top and wax carving side I remove the gems and the wax model is ready for casting.
Marquise Wax Carving The beginnings of carving the bezel for the marquise diamond
Marquise Wax Final Due to the unusual shape of the diamond, the wax carving requires extra attention
A plaster mold is made around the wax and cast into 22k yellow gold