Ammolite Awe Part 9 – “Final Setting and Polishing”
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The conclusion of any jewelry piece is putting on the final polish. As you have observed there are many details in building a piece. These details add a great deal to the overall beauty of the brooch. There are many times during the process I questioned my decisions on design and on techniques. But I stayed on course and created the piece as closely to possible to the original sketch. It is so rewarding to see all the work come together with the final polish.
However this final stage is the most risk and the most stressful. It is very difficult to relay the emotions one feels when sitting at a bench to set a stone. Every craftsperson, in any medium, has experienced this. You hold in your hand a piece you have invested so much time (and money) and one little slip… or perhaps one small inclusion in the gem and the stone breaks. It is heart wrenching! You feel terrible for days. You re-group and look at alternatives: Rebuild for a new stone? Re-cut the damaged gem?
When I first started I was visiting with this older diamond setter. He just broke a diamond. I proudly said, “What? I have never broken a diamond” (at the time I had probably only set 10 diamonds to his thousands).
He replied, “There are two types of diamond setters in this world… those that have broken a diamond and those that are GOING to break a diamond. YOU are in the latter group!” I learned to shut up and just watch!
With high risk comes high reward. I successfully set the main Ammolite, the accent fire opal, and the other accent stones. I held true to my original vision resulting in a truly unique and beautiful showpiece!
Polishing I do an initial heavy polishing before setting all of the stones to avoid damaging them
Ultrasonic Cleaning the Brooch This cleaning also requires soaking it in the ultrasonic cleaner. Doing this before setting the stones to minimize risk.
Steam Cleaning the Brooch The high pressure and heat of the steam cleaner would damage the ammolite so I add this to my initial polish before setting.
Securing pin for setting The piece needs to be very secure during the setting stage. The white clay material is a special solution called “Jet”. When warmed the pin sinks in and when cooled it is like cement and locked in place. The platform is placed in my engraving ball that can spin and tilt.
Setting the accent diamonds I start with the smaller and less risky gems, the two colored diamonds and the one small white one at the top. Using a prong pusher I force the prongs over the girdle of the gem till it is tight.
Setting the Fire Opal In the wax stage I carved a half bezel in my design to hold the other side of the gem. Again I use the prong pusher on the single prong, forcing it onto the opal crown facet.
Setting the Ammolite Using equal pressure and alternating from each side I roll the bezel over the small edge of the ammolite.
Setting the Ammolite After moving the metal with the tool I then use a burnishing technique by smoothing and rubbing the metal onto the delicate gem.
Engraver cleanup As a final clean up around the prongs I use a very sharp engraver to shape the prong and remove any excess of metal.
