Custom jewelry at deJonghe Original Jewelry isn't a catalog selection — it's a process. One that starts with your idea and ends with something made specifically for you in our Saratoga Springs studio. Here's what that looks like from start to finish.
phase 1 - custom jewelry process
Design Development
The idea becomes a design
The Initial Consultation
Every custom piece begins the same way: a conversation. You'll meet directly with Evan or Dennis deJonghe — the designers and jewelers who will be working on your jewelry — in the studio, by appointment. This typically starts with a lot of questions before we suggest anything.
What do you have in mind? How will the jewelry be worn? Is this for a specific occasion? What gemstones or metals are you drawn to? What's the inspiration?
The goal at this stage isn't to sell you on a direction — it's to understand what you actually want, so the design we develop reflects that.
Gemstone Sourcing & Design Direction
With a direction in mind, we turn to gemstones. We maintain an in-house collection spanning a wide range of fine quality gems — diamonds, rubies, sapphires, tourmalines, garnets, opals, and more — and we work with a network of specialist dealers when a particular gem is needed.
We typically bring in three to five options for you to review in person. Seeing the gems in your hands, in different lighting and against your skin makes a difference that no photo can replicate.
Once the gemstone is selected, the design takes shape around it: the setting style, the metal, the proportions.
phase 2 - custom jewelry process
Prototype, Production & Finishing
The design becomes the jewelry
Wax Model or CAD rendering
Before anything is cast, we build a model. Depending on the design, that means one of three approaches:
- Hand-carved wax — for designs that lend themselves to direct carving
- CAD and 3D-printed wax — for more complex or precise work, where a computer rendering is developed first and then printed in wax
- Direct fabrication — some jewelry pieces bypass casting entirely and are built directly from metal stock and components
If a wax model is produced, you review it before we proceed. This is an important step — that wax will become the finished piece through lost-wax casting, so any adjustments happen here. Metal choice is confirmed at this stage as well.
Jewelry Production
Once the design is approved, manufacturing begins. The sequence for most cast pieces:
Casting — the wax is cast in precious metal by a specialist casting house.
Pre-polish and prep — the raw casting is cleaned, refined, and prepared for setting.
Stone setting and assembly — gemstones are individually fit and set; any separate components are assembled.
Final polish — the jewelry is brought to its finished surface. It is then stamped with our makers mark and metal type.
Quality check and final photographs — we inspect the finished jewelry and document it before contacting you.
When it's ready, we reach out.
Custom jewelry
Ready to Start?
Custom work begins with a conversation. Contact us to schedule a consultation at our Saratoga Springs studio.
FAQ
Not necessarily. While an in-person meeting at our Saratoga Springs studio is our preference, we can get things started over a phone or video call as well. All appointments — in-person or remote — can be scheduled on our appointment page. You can also fill out this form to provide any information or inspiration for your custom jewelry project.
Most custom pieces take two to four months from initial consultation to completion. Timelines can vary depending on design complexity, gemstone sourcing, and production scheduling. If you have a specific date in mind — an anniversary, a proposal, a holiday — let us know at the start and we'll plan accordingly.
We work with 14k and higher karat yellow and white gold, and platinum. We'll discuss the best option for your design during the consultation — metal choice affects both the look and the long-term wear of the piece.
We work exclusively with natural gemstones. We do not work with synthetic, lab-created, or simulated stones. Our in-house collection includes diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, tourmalines, garnets, opals, pearls, and more. If you have something specific in mind, we can source it through our network of specialist dealers.
Minor adjustments can be made along the way. However, a significant change in direction after design development has begun may involve a change fee. Once a wax model has been reviewed and approved, no further changes can be made — production proceeds from that point.
Yes, in some cases. We're happy to work with gemstones you already own — heirloom diamonds, a stone from a piece you'd like to reimagine, or something you've sourced yourself. Bring it in and we'll assess whether it's suitable for the design you have in mind.
Yes. Redesigning a piece that already has personal significance is some of the most meaningful work we do. We can incorporate existing stones, melt down metal for use in a new piece, or use components from an old piece in a new design. Visit our Repurposing page for more information.
Custom pricing depends on the design, the gemstones selected, and the metal used — there's no single answer. We'll give you a clear quote before any work begins, and nothing moves forward without your approval at each stage.
Lost-wax casting is the method we use to translate a wax model into metal. Once a wax is approved, it's invested in a mold and the wax is burned out, leaving a cavity in the exact shape of your piece. Molten metal is then cast into that cavity. The result is a casting that closely mirrors the wax — which is why the wax review stage matters.
